A camping holiday with a difference.
Posted April 22nd 2026
This is a new concept for us, having a “camping” holiday without Swifty. It feels easy in some ways, not having to pack Swifty with all our food, bedding, clothes, camping gear, and doing car maintenance jobs, all that is done for us this time. Being self contained in a camper van with a loo and shower is novel for us too. I always said if I found myself dragging a container of our effluent through a campground, that then my camping days were over. So to remain true to myself, I’ll get Nick to do it.
We departed from Gold Coast airport on Air New Zealand bound for Christchurch. On a world level there is a war in the Middle East, initiated by Trump and Netanyahu, with the aim to create regime change in Iran and free the desperate people of Iran from a repressive government. After 6 weeks it looks like a fizzer. The upshot is, there’s a fuel supply crisis because the Iranians have chosen to close the waterway where oil tankers would normally freely travel to supply the world with petroleum products. Flights could be impacted, prices could sky rocket, International travel could be out of the question for us normal people. But we’ve snuck in ahead of any disruptions. Phew. Years ago we booked a holiday to NZ then Covid 19 hit, holiday cancelled!!
On top of a “fuel crisis” we were heading off to NZ which was facing a cyclone in the North island. We were going to the South. Flights were still departing to that cyclonic region so I thought it couldn’t be too bad.
Arriving at Christchurch mid afternoon we settled into our 3 star accommodation, not very classy but great location. A low hanging mist shrouded the suburbs, by 5.00pm it was dark, it looked like the UK but it was warmish. We walked and walked, stretched our legs as we debated what sort of meal we’d have, as there were many choices along Riccarton road. Settled for a pub meal of roast pork.
Next morning the mist had cleared but clouds hung about all day. We set off walking into town, through Hagely Park, kicking up piles of autumn leaves and marvelling at the enormous Plane trees and Oaks that lined the path. We were both lost in childhood memories of true autumns past, with coloured leaves and chilly faces.
My first impression of Christchurch was a city of contrasts, old vs new. Some old bluestone buildings were covered in scaffold, new buildings supported massive cranes overhead, vacant gravel parking lots were dotted between stunning new glass architectural marvels. And then we came to Christchurch Cathedral, once a dominant presence in the heart of the city, now a fenced in ruin. No workers noisily worked on the site, the city had run out of funds to complete the restoration. However the Anglican church has promised funds now to restore the front nave, which can seat 100 people.
After the 2011 earthquake Christchurch was said to be the biggest reconstruction site in the world, until Notre Dame caught fire and took the lead.
We boarded the city circle tram seeking a good coffee stop. We weren’t disappointed, stop 18 was New Regent Street, a very quaint street with colourful 2 storey houses and shops where the tram drives down the middle of the road. Suitably buzzing after our coffees and muffin, we walked back to the town centre, and rode another tram through the shopping precinct. Great to hear the commentary from people who’d been witness to the 2011 earthquake. They pointed out which places had survived from the 90% destruction of the city. We decided to visit the Quake Museum. I felt it would be triggering for a local but maybe after 15 years they’re ok. The videos, interviews, photos, remnants of structures, all combined as a lasting memory of just how severe the quake was and how resilient the people have been to rebuild their city. Glad we chose to go there.
To finish the day we walked back through the Botanic Gardens, adjoining Hadley Park. I loved all the significant trees, especially the towering Sequoias from California, the Ginkgos from Japan, as well as the Oaks, Cedars, Redwoods, Pines, Elms and even a Wollemi Pine. Many were planted as Commemorative trees by notorieties like Dalai Lama, and the late Queen Elizabeth. It’s so energising to stand by a towering tree and look up into the branches and feel tiny…. surrounded by the giants of Nature. There’s very little built by humans that exude such a powerful presence, that make me want to stay in it’s aura for a long time.
Big day today, pick up our camper van. Time to experience camping like we’d never done before.
After the prolonged briefing, going bit by bit through the van with a lovely German backpacker, we finally set off towards Arthur’s Pass. Below the Pass we stopped for the night in a park, to power up our battery, and learn how to make the bed, switch things on and off, all pretty straight forward actually! The cold night taught us to close the vent over the bed and add an extra blanket.
With snow capped mountains already visible, we headed for Arthur’s Pass. I think we were both expecting somewhere like Charlotte’s Pass in the Aussie Alps, a narrow pass with snow all about us. But no, it was a small non-descript town with a railway station. Over the western side of the Pass was a narrow steep winding road with a huge gorge of violently rushing aqua glacial water. We took a shortcut turn off to Greymouth, our destination for the night.
Nick writes:
“Greymouth is situated in the Grey District which is much the same as the naming of the Northern Rivers or a prefecture in Japan. Named after the then Governor Sir Somebody Grey who also had the Grey river named after himself, later the town Greymouth was named after him with much fanfare. It is a very apt name as the hills that surround the place are grey, the river is grey and you guessed it the weather is grey as well. There is an information board in town that states that ‘A week without rain in Greymouth is very unusual’. As soon as we got there it started to rain and it continued all night with gusto.”
We parked in a free camping spot on a spur of the headland, close to the sea. Overnight, I estimate 30 more vans joined us. We parked as far from the sea as possible. After the battering we got in Swifty at Crescent Head in 2025, we will never trust a coastal campsite again, we made the right choice this night. The wind howled, rocking our van, the rain was torrential. I was not envious of the row of vans facing the sea.
There’s local folklore about the wind:
“The “Greymouth Barber” is a famous, cold katabatic wind that blows down the Grey River valley in New Zealand. Occurring at night, this gravity-driven wind brings dense, cold air from the mountains down the valley, often creating a, “long white cloud” or fog known to feel as sharp as a razor, or “cutting your hair”. We had a short back and sides….and a shave!
The morning after was surprisingly calm, as often happens after a storm bash. We quickly ate our brekky as we knew the west coast of the South Island was due to have more rain and wind. In fact the weather forecasts were not good, so we headed down to Wanaka, with only brief pauses at Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers.
This should do for this first NZ blog. My thoughts so far….we are doing really well in the cold….giving thanks daily that we are not in Swifty. As a first taste of a country many Aussies have visited often, we are skimming the country, but whetting our appetites for another trip…..in summer!!!!
Jen & Nick xx
COME AWAY WITH ME 
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